Understanding diamonds doesn’t have to be overwhelming. This comprehensive guide from RPS Diamonds breaks down everything you need to know about selecting the perfect diamond ring, from the 4Cs to cut styles and settings.
Understanding the 4Cs of Diamonds {#understanding-the-4cs}
The 4Cs—Cut, Colour, Clarity, and Carat—are the universal standards for evaluating diamond quality. Understanding these characteristics will help you make an informed decision and find the perfect balance between quality and budget.
Cut: The Most Important C
Cut refers not to the diamond’s shape, but to how well it has been cut from its rough form. This is arguably the most crucial factor affecting a diamond’s beauty.
Cut Grades:
- Excellent/Ideal: Maximum brilliance and fire. Light reflects through the diamond perfectly
- Very Good: Exceptional brilliance with slightly less perfect proportions
- Good: Good brilliance, offers excellent value
- Fair: Adequate brilliance, noticeable reduction in sparkle
- Poor: Little brilliance, light escapes from bottom and sides
The cut determines how light travels through the diamond, creating that coveted sparkle. A well-cut diamond will appear more brilliant than a poorly cut diamond of higher colour or clarity grade.
Key Cut Components:
- Table: The flat top surface
- Crown: The upper portion above the girdle
- Girdle: The widest part of the diamond
- Pavilion: The lower portion below the girdle
- Culet: The bottom point (ideally very small or none)
Colour: From Colourless to Light Yellow
Diamond colour is graded on a scale from D (colourless) to Z (light yellow or brown).
Colour Scale Breakdown:
- D-F (Colourless): No colour detected, even by experts. Premium pricing
- G-J (Near Colourless): Colour difficult to detect unless compared side-by-side with higher grades. Excellent value
- K-M (Faint): Slight warm tint visible, especially in larger diamonds
- N-R (Very Light): Noticeable colour, often appears slightly yellow
- S-Z (Light): Obvious yellow or brown tint
Pro Tip: G-H colour diamonds offer the best value—they appear colourless to the naked eye but cost significantly less than D-F grades.
Clarity: Natural Characteristics
Clarity refers to the absence of inclusions (internal flaws) and blemishes (external flaws).
Clarity Grades:
- FL (Flawless): No inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification
- IF (Internally Flawless): No inclusions, only minor blemishes under 10x magnification
- VVS1-VVS2 (Very Very Slightly Included): Inclusions difficult for experts to see under 10x magnification
- VS1-VS2 (Very Slightly Included): Minor inclusions visible under 10x magnification but not to naked eye
- SI1-SI2 (Slightly Included): Inclusions visible under 10x magnification, sometimes visible to naked eye
- I1-I3 (Included): Inclusions visible to naked eye, may affect transparency and brilliance
Value Consideration: VS2 and SI1 grades often provide the best value—they’re “eye-clean” (no visible inclusions to the naked eye) but more affordable than higher grades.
Carat: Size and Weight
Carat refers to the diamond’s weight, not its size. One carat equals 0.2 grams.
Important Points:
- Two diamonds of equal carat weight can appear different sizes based on cut
- Prices increase exponentially with carat weight
- “Magic sizes” (0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0 carats) command premium prices
- Consider 0.9 or 1.9 carat diamonds for better value—they look nearly identical to full carat sizes
Visual Size by Carat (Round Brilliant):
- 0.5 carat: ~5.1mm diameter
- 1.0 carat: ~6.5mm diameter
- 1.5 carat: ~7.4mm diameter
- 2.0 carat: ~8.1mm diameter
Diamond Shapes Explained {#diamond-shapes}
Each diamond shape has unique characteristics that affect its appearance, brilliance, and style.
Round Brilliant
- Characteristics: 58 facets optimised for maximum brilliance
- Style: Classic, timeless, versatile
- Considerations: Most expensive per carat due to high demand and material loss during cutting
- Best for: Traditional romantics who want maximum sparkle
Princess Cut
- Characteristics: Square or rectangular with pointed corners
- Style: Modern, edgy, brilliant
- Considerations: Corners need protection in setting; shows colour more in corners
- Best for: Contemporary styles, those wanting brilliance in a square shape
Oval Cut
- Characteristics: Elongated round brilliant, length-to-width ratio typically 1.35-1.50
- Style: Elegant, finger-lengthening, classic with a twist
- Considerations: Can show “bow-tie” effect; appears larger than round of same carat
- Best for: Those wanting a larger-looking diamond with traditional brilliance
Cushion Cut
- Characteristics: Square or rectangular with rounded corners and larger facets
- Style: Vintage-inspired, romantic, soft brilliance
- Considerations: Available in multiple facet patterns; shows colour more than round
- Best for: Vintage lovers, those preferring softer sparkle
Emerald Cut
- Characteristics: Rectangular step-cut with cropped corners
- Style: Sophisticated, art deco, hall-of-mirrors effect
- Considerations: Shows inclusions and colour more easily; emphasises clarity
- Best for: Those who appreciate understated elegance and clarity
Marquise Cut
- Characteristics: Elongated with pointed ends, resembling a boat
- Style: Dramatic, unique, maximises carat weight
- Considerations: Length-to-width ratio affects appearance; points need protection
- Best for: Bold personalities wanting maximum finger coverage
Pear Cut
- Characteristics: Teardrop shape combining round and marquise
- Style: Elegant, unique, versatile
- Considerations: Symmetry crucial; can be worn point up or down
- Best for: Creative types who want something different but classic
Radiant Cut
- Characteristics: Rectangular or square with cropped corners and brilliant faceting
- Style: Modern, brilliant, versatile
- Considerations: Combines emerald cut shape with round brilliant sparkle
- Best for: Those wanting step-cut shape with brilliant-cut fire
Asscher Cut
- Characteristics: Square emerald cut with larger step facets
- Style: Art deco, vintage, architectural
- Considerations: Shows inclusions easily; creates unique “windmill” pattern
- Best for: Vintage enthusiasts who appreciate geometric beauty
Ring Settings and Styles
The setting secures your diamond and contributes significantly to the ring’s overall appearance.
Solitaire
- Description: Single diamond on a plain band
- Pros: Timeless, showcases the diamond, easy to clean
- Cons: Less finger coverage, diamond more exposed
- Best for: Minimalists, classic style lovers
Halo
- Description: Centre stone surrounded by smaller diamonds
- Pros: Makes centre stone appear larger, extra sparkle, vintage appeal
- Cons: More maintenance required, can overshadow smaller centre stones
- Best for: Those wanting maximum sparkle and larger appearance
Pavé
- Description: Small diamonds set closely together along the band
- Pros: Continuous sparkle, elegant, complements centre stone
- Cons: Harder to resize, requires careful cleaning
- Best for: Sparkle lovers who want diamonds from every angle
Three-Stone
- Description: Centre stone flanked by two side stones
- Pros: Symbolic (past, present, future), substantial look
- Cons: Can catch on clothing, more stones to maintain
- Best for: Sentimental types, those wanting larger overall appearance
Bezel
- Description: Metal rim surrounds the diamond
- Pros: Most secure, protects diamond edges, modern look
- Cons: Can make diamond appear smaller, less light entry
- Best for: Active lifestyles, modern aesthetic preferences
Cathedral
- Description: Arches of metal rise up to support the centre stone
- Pros: Elegant profile, secure, allows wedding band to sit flush
- Cons: Can snag, higher profile
- Best for: Those wanting architectural interest and elevation
Tension
- Description: Diamond appears suspended between two ends of the band
- Pros: Modern, unique, shows more of the diamond
- Cons: Requires precise sizing, limited diamond shapes
- Best for: Contemporary style lovers, design enthusiasts
Metal Choices {#metal-choices}
The metal you choose affects the ring’s appearance, durability, and maintenance requirements.
Platinum
- Characteristics: Naturally white, hypoallergenic, 95% pure
- Durability: Extremely durable but develops patina
- Maintenance: Periodic polishing to restore shine
- Best for: Those with sensitive skin, wanting premium metal
18K White Gold
- Characteristics: 75% gold alloyed with white metals, rhodium plated
- Durability: Hard and durable, requires replating
- Maintenance: Rhodium replating every 1-2 years
- Best for: White metal look at lower price than platinum
18K Yellow Gold
- Characteristics: Classic warm tone, 75% pure gold
- Durability: Softer than white gold but doesn’t require plating
- Maintenance: Periodic polishing
- Best for: Traditional styles, warm skin tones
18K Rose Gold
- Characteristics: Gold alloyed with copper for pink hue
- Durability: Slightly harder due to copper content
- Maintenance: Minimal, develops deeper patina over time
- Best for: Romantic styles, trending choice
14K Gold (All Colours)
- Characteristics: 58.5% pure gold, more durable than 18K
- Durability: Harder wearing for active lifestyles
- Maintenance: Less frequent than 18K
- Best for: Daily wear, budget-conscious buyers
Budget Considerations {#budget-considerations}
The Traditional “Three Months’ Salary” Rule
This outdated guideline doesn’t reflect modern relationships or financial realities. Spend what feels comfortable for your situation.
Smart Budget Allocation
Typical breakdown:
- Diamond: 70-80% of budget
- Setting: 15-25% of budget
- Additional costs: 5% (insurance, sizing, taxes)
Value Maximisation Tips
Prioritise Cut: Never compromise on cut quality—it affects beauty more than any other factor.
The Sweet Spot Approach:
- Colour: G-H (appears colourless, saves 20-40%)
- Clarity: VS2-SI1 (eye-clean, saves 20-30%)
- Carat: Just under magic sizes (0.9, 1.4, 1.9)
Shape Selection:
- Round brilliants are 25-35% more expensive than fancy shapes
- Oval and pear shapes appear larger per carat
- Emerald and Asscher cuts show colour and clarity more
Consider Lab Grown: Lab grown diamonds offer identical beauty at 30-40% less cost, allowing for larger or higher quality stones within budget.
Making Your Final Decision {#final-decision}
Key Questions to Ask
About the Diamond:
- Can I see the certification?
- Is this diamond eye-clean?
- How does this diamond perform in different lighting?
- What’s included in the price?
- What’s your return/exchange policy?
About the Setting:
- Will this setting fit flush with a wedding band?
- How secure is this setting for daily wear?
- Can this ring be resized?
- What maintenance does this setting require?
Red Flags to Avoid
- No certification from recognised labs (GIA, AGS, IGI)
- Prices significantly below market
- Pressure to buy immediately
- Unwillingness to show diamonds under different lighting
- No clear return policy
Final Tips
Trust Your Eyes: While certificates provide important information, your visual preference matters most.
Consider Lifestyle: Choose settings and metals that suit daily activities.
Think Long-term: Select a style you’ll love in 20 years, not just what’s trending now.
Get Insurance: Protect your investment with comprehensive jewellery insurance.
Why Choose RPS Diamonds
At RPS Diamonds, we understand that selecting a diamond ring is both an emotional and financial decision. Our expert consultants guide you through every step, ensuring you understand exactly what you’re purchasing. Whether you choose a natural or lab grown diamond, we provide:
- GIA, IGI, or AGS certified diamonds only
- Transparent pricing with no hidden costs
- Lifetime warranty on all settings
- Free annual cleaning and inspection
- 30-day return policy
- Custom design services
Book your consultation today and let us help you find the perfect diamond ring that tells your unique love story.
